How to

Steam dyeing fabric and yarn

How to use phillacolor natural dyes, acquerelli and tempere
Dyeing process “by absorption” at temperature of 90° for the creation of different colours shades. Limited quantity of water is required. The natural dyes, "ACQUERELLI", "TEMPERE" and "BATIK" can be used to dye all the materials 100% naturally sourced, animal or vegetable, such as wool, silk, cotton and linen. However, they are not recommended to dye synthetics.
The dyeing can be made on fibres, yarns, cloths, clothing and textiles products.

Mordating

To prepare the material to be dyed follow the mordanting instruction. Click on this banner to view the instructions.

The ABSORPTION STEAM DYEING METHOD is suitable for dyeing and painting on fabric, to achieve solid color effect, various color shades effect and shibori/tiedye effect.

It's a low energy and water consumption process.
This method requires a lower amount of dye bath compared to steam and cold dyeing.

The suitable products for  steam dyeing method are: Acquerello and Tempera, except for Acquerello Ambra, Acquerello Pistacchio, Acquerello Tabacco, Tempera Ambra, Tempera Corallo.

 

How to steam dye with ACQUERELLO

φhillacolor Acquerello are concentrated liquid colors that can be used pure or diluted in water for lighter color nuances.

 

Tools

  • Steam pot
  • Low wide container
  • Small containers
  • Measuring cup
  • Painting tools (brush, dropper, roller, sponge...)
  • Plastic wrap

 

Method 1 - Instruction

This method is suitable for plain color effect. Fabrics or clothing are soacked in small amount of color for few minutes and steamed.

  • Prepare the fabric with the mordanting process before dyeing!
  • Measure the amount of dye bath required for the dyeing.                                                                                                  A small amount of liquid is require, just enough to soack it evenly.
  • Choose a percentage of the concentrated color (colors can be applied pure or diluted in water dilution)
  • Make the color percentage based on the total amount of dye bath previously measured. 
  • Shake the jar before use, stir well the color and dilute it in water.
  • Arrange the plastic wrap on the table.
  • Poor the concentrated color or the dilution into a wide container.
  • Soak the dry fabric until fully absorbed.
  • Remove and drain.
  • Spead it out on the plastic wrap.
  • Brush to even it out and to remove the excess color.
  • Arrange another plastic wrap on the fabric, fold the edges and wrap the fabric.
  • Put the roll into the pot and let steam for 60 minutes at 90° (60° for Acquerello Ortensia, Ortensia 1, Mare, Laguna).
  • Let cool, unroll and remove the plastic wrap.
  • Rinse in cold water.
  • Let it dry and dry iron on reverse.

 

Method 2 - Instruction

This method is suitable for dyeing and painting to achieve plain color effect, gradients and different color nuances. Color is applied directly on the fabric/clothing with paint tools (brush, roller, dropper...) and steamed.

  • Mordant the fabric before dyeing!
  • Measure the amount of dye bath required for the dyeing.                                                                                                  A small amount of liquid is require, just enough to soack it evenly.
  • Choose a percentage of the concentrated color (colors can be applied pure or diluted in water dilution)
  • Make the color percentage based on the total amount of dye bath previously measured. 
  • Shake the jar before use, stir well the color and dilute it in water.
  • Arrange the plastic wrap on the table.
  • Spread out the dry fabric on the table.
  • Apply the color with brush or other paint tools on the dry fabric. For best result the color has to soack through the back side of the fabric. Stir the color time to time.
  • Arrange another plastic wrap on the fabric, fold the edges and wrap the fabric.
  • Put the roll into the pot and let steam for 60 minutes at 90° (60° for Acquerello Ortensia, Ortensia 1, Mare, Laguna).
  • Let cool, unroll and remove the plastic wrap.
  • Rinse in cold water.
  • Let it dry and dry iron on reverse.

NOTE: colors change their nuances depending on the type of fabric and always look darker when fabric is wet. It's always better to make color samples on the right fabric to check the final result.

 

How to steam dye with TEMPERA

Tempera is a unique shade color and cannot be diluted in water. It's suitable to create defined patterns and shapes.
The density of each colors can be slighly different due to the different physical properties of their natural sources. The density can be fixed with a dilution in some matching watercolor.

 

Tools

  • Steam pot
  • Small containers
  • Painting tools (brush, dropper, roller, sponge...)
  • Plastic wrap

 

Instructions

 

  • Prepare the fabric with the mordanting process before dyeing!
  • Measure the amount of color required to dye/paint the fabric.
  • Stir well the product before use.
  • Arrange the plastic wrap on the table.
  • Spread out the dry fabric on the table.
  • Apply the color with brush or other paint tools on the dry fabric. For best result the color has to soack through the back side of the fabric.
  • Let completely dry at room temperature (24 - 48 hours depending on the fabric) without using iron, phon or other heat sources. With cold dyeing method color sets slowly on the fabric by oxidation in contact with air.
  • Once dry, go through with the dyeing with Acquerello according to the design.
  • Arrange another plastic wrap on the fabric, fold the edges and wrap the fabric.
  • Put the roll into the pot and let steam for 60 minutes at 90° (60° for Acquerello Ortensia, Ortensia 1, Mare, Laguna).
  • Let cool, unroll and remove the plastic wrap.
  • Rinse in cold water.
  • Let it dry and dry iron on reverse.

NOTE: colors change their nuances depending on the type of fabric and always look darker when fabric is wet. It's always better to make color samples on the right fabric to check the final result.

Product maintenance

  • The product expire in about 6 months. Store in a cool and dry place.
    Once opened, keep the container tightly closed, use in short time and if possible store in the fridge.

Storage, color fastness, care and maintenance of fabrics.

Storage
φhillacolor natural dyes are organic. Since they do not contain chemical additives or preservatives, they expire in about 6 months. Store in a cool and dry place. Once opened, keep the container tightly closed, use in short time and if possible store in the fridge.

Color fastness
Is the material’s color’s resistance to fading or running to various external factors, like washing, sun exposure, friction, perspiration, humidity. The color’s resistance to washing and use is higher than to the light exposure. The color fastness of our products is 3/4 on 5.

Maintenance of fabrics
Keep the natural dyed fabrics and clothes far from direct sunlight, gently hand or machine wash at temperature 30° or lower, with mild neutral detergent and gentle spin, dry iron on the reverse side.